If you have an agricultural/horticultural problem you can consult the materia medica and repertories that are beginning to appear. I have organised on-line versions which I try to keep up to date. These are freely accessible, and any of you who have some experiences of success can add that experience directly and thus be part of the growth of the discipline. If you are uncomfortable adding your experience yourself you can send it to me to add. The “materia medica agricultura” is at: http://www.considera.org/matmed and the repertory (which is a little less up-to-date than the MM) is at: http://www.considera.org/rep .
If that has not offered up a successful preparation for your situation please do write your questions to this column. I like to hear about the soil and climate and other defining or contributing factors as well as the presenting issue. Clear photos are a great assistance too. All these are shared with Dr Iftikhar Waris who will suggest a remedy which might assist you. The answers are simple prescriptions. The reasons for these prescriptions are something for which we must wait. Time does not allow us to spell out the prescribing process yielding each answer but Dr Waris and I are trying to find time to come together again (I am in the UK, Dr Waris in Pakistan) so that we can make progress towards a single publication clarifying Dr Waris’ rationale.
Dr. Pawan Singhania in India, who has also had successes with agrohomeopathy, has offered to contribute gardening advice. Many plant problems are effectively addressed through non-homeopathic processes – irrigation and manuring and so forth – and we will now circulate your questions to Dr Singhania for such input with great thanks for his offer.
How to apply the remedies.
Kavi suggested this: “ When I refer to treating plants with homeopathic remedies, this is the standard dosing procedure: Put 20 drops of a 6X potency in a litre of water. Succuss the bottle 50 times. Put this litre in the watering can, fill it up with 19 litres of tap water and stir. If the watering can is smaller, the amount of remedy put in must be proportionally smaller. Thus a 10 litre can needs only ½ litre and just 10 drops of the remedy. Apply the contents of the watering can to the roots of the plants to be treated.”
Christiane Maute has used remedies on pillules and says this in her book “Homeopathy for Plants”: for your garden: Crush 6-8 globules in 150 ml or water using a plastic or wooden spoon. This mixture will be divided into 3 parts and used to make 30 litres of “medicinal water” in all.” (The three parts are because 10 litres is enough to carry but you can add the 150 ml to the 30 litres in one go.)
Mark Moodie says: Try the above. As agrohomeopathy is so young please take these as no more than initial suggestions. In biodynamics we make a distinction between remedies that irrigate a plant and those that are sprayed in the air. Kavi often said you don’t take a shower in the remedy, you drink it and because a plant drinks through its roots that’s why you apply it there. But the stoma on the underside of the leaves are also paths into the plant so I would argue with Kavi. There you have it: a difference of opinion. Perhaps this is frustrating but I hope you will sigh and take it as a permission to experiment – AND PLEASE REPORT BACK! (Thanks)
And now to your questions…
We have farmland of 8 acres and in that we are cultivating most horticulture and a wheat crop. We have a problem of termites that spoil the plants and their growth. Secondly, we want to know if there are homeopathic remedies which can help in growing healthy mango plants? Kindly guide us.
Thanking you in anticipation
For Termites you can use ANTIMONIUM TARTARICUM 200C & MERCURIUS SOLUBILIS 200C.
For Mango plant growth you can spray AMBRA GRISEA 3D & KALIUM PHOSPHORICUM 3D alternately.
I have a Bamboo plant that I’ve had for over 10 years. The leaves we’re getting brown last year so I decided to cut it back completely (leaves and roots) to start over fresh. Sorry to say the stem is turning yellowish and the leaves are barely coming back. Please help if you can. I don’t want to get rid of it even though a couple of people said it was time.
ABROTANUM 200C is the solution to your problem.
The leaves of my aloe-vera plants get yellow and then turn dry at the ends. Can you please tell me the reason and solution to the problem? I would be thankful to you for this.
Lack of PHOTOSYNTHETIC PROCESS is the root cause of your problem. You can use the following medicines to get rid of the problem.
CARBO VEGETABILIS 3D
CHINA OFFICINALIS 3D
Dear Mark and Dr. Waris,
I have a myriad of garden problems because I won’t use fungicides or pesticides. I can’t send pictures – there’s 2.5 feet of snow on the ground yet (Michigan, U.S.A., zone 5a.) Every year, the cucumbers that I grow on two big commercial baking racks balanced together at the top, start to get funguses on them into the second month of growth. I water from the bottom only. The fungus is usually white and then it turns dark brown and dried as if it burned the leaves. (I can obtain C-potency homeopathic remedies).
You can Protect your cucumbers by using PSORINUM 200C & SILICEA 200C alternately.
I planted yellow hibiscus two years ago, but still it is small as compared to other hibiscus plants. Have you any suggestions?
You can use CALCAREA PHOSPHORICA 30C, CHELIDONIUM MAJUS 30C & STAPHYSAGRIA 30C alternately to achieve better height & growth of the plants.
Dear Plant Doctor,
Through Facekom I became aware of Dr. Kaviraj’s work. I did follow his choice of remedies and got good results with Salicylic acid for a creeper. We have a Jackfruit tree and its fruit would rot and fall off in the very early stage. With Thuja Q we got very sweet fruit, although the flesh was not thick.
Now I am having a lot of problem with most of the trees and plants. I tried Cina, Spigelia, Thuja, Silicea, with no perceptible results. The plant I am having the most problem with is a Bilva plant. I am attaching a picture. If the new team in AgroHomeopathy could help it would be great.
My Dear Syamala,
PIPER METHYSTICUM 3D is the solution to your problem.
I just wanted to relate my experience for others to read. Hope you can use this in some way.
Thuja for a Sunset Maple……
We live in the southeastern Interior of BC Canada, in a mountainous town, with summers that don’t really start until August. We have a 15 year-old Sunset Maple in our back yard: it’s a tall tree now with a lovely canopy in the summer, and beautiful fiery reds in the fall. A hedge of Thuja occidentalis sits right behind the maple, up against the fence. We have lots of Dulcamara (woody nightshade) and Ranunculus Bulbosus (buttercup) in our yard; I notice that all three plants (Thuja, Dulcamara and Ranunculus Bulbosus) as remedies, are aggravated by damp and/or cold weather in their symptoms.
In damper summers the tree had taken on a leaf curl, with dark, fungusy-looking areas on most of its leaves. I hadn’t specifically ‘diagnosed’ it, but it certainly looked like a mold or a fungus. I didn’t see that the tree was affected anywhere else. Two summers ago, I used 2 large watering cans to water around the drip line, with a pellet or two of Thuja 30C dissolved in the water. I only watered halfway around the drip line, as the rest of the way was inaccessible. Since that watering, the tree has not suffered the leaf damage, even with damper summers. Happy tree! Thank you homeopathy!
I have already been using Homeopathy with my family for many years and would like to treat my plants now. My Wisteria is flowering beautifully for the 3rd year in a row, but since the first year I bought it, it grew nodules all around the trunk.
It looks like gout. I don’t know what to do. The only thing I do is to cut the nodules out, but they keep coming back. It’s like an infestation or something that is not going away. Which remedy is good for this and what potency? How should I administer to a plant since I have never done this before?
You can use BERBERIS VULGARIS 3D & HECLA LAVA 3D for control the Nodules.
I have a rose plant that is a year old. It grows up to 5 ft. I pruned it to 3 ft but it has yet to product any flowers. Ideas?
For flowering, you can spray your rose plants with NATRIUM MURIATICUM 30C & VIBURNUM OPULUS 3D.