Each month V.D. Kaviraj answers questions about plants and plant problems. Kaviraj is one of the foremost pioneers of Agro-homeopathy and author of the book, Homeopathy for Farm and Garden. Send your questions! (with pictures when possible – JPG or GIF format) to [email protected] with the subject “Plant Doctor”.
Dosing Plants: When I refer to treating plants with homeopathic remedies, this is the standard dosing procedure: Put 20 drops of a 6X potency in a litre of water. Succuss the bottle 50 times. Put this litre in the watering can, fill it up with 19 litres of tap water and stir. If the watering can is smaller, the amount of remedy put in must be proportionally smaller. Thus a 10 litre can needs only ½ litre and just 10 drops of the remedy. Apply the contents of the watering can to the roots of the plants to be treated.
I have a “pears” about three years old. Every year after flowering when fruit comes, the fruit size is very small, and after some period of time they drop off. They do not grow fully to their normal size.
Too many weeds grow and come on my small patch of land where we grow our vegetables, especially after rains. We sprinkle anti weeds solution, but they give only temporary relief. The weeds again grow up after some time.
It sounds like your soil is lacking in phosphor, because that is an element in great demand during the flowering and fruiting time. Therefore, I recommend you give a dose of Ferrum phosphoricum at this stage of development. Moreover, it is very good to spray the flowers with Silicea, once there are a good amount of buds about to open. That is something to keep in mind for next year.
I’m busy doing research with homoeopathy in hydroponics, but have hit a snag where my supervisor is asking if the homoeopathic remedy added to the hydroponic water won’t be nullified due to the nutrient solution already in the hydroponic water. Do you have some advice or referencing as to where I can find the answer?
I doubt there will be any antidoting happening and if you want to check that, then first try it out on a few plants. My experience is that the remedy cuts straight through everything and does its work, regardless of any other component in the environment. If the nutrients are out of balance the remedy will regulate their uptake in the plant. Analysis afterwards can show you which nutrients were taken up more and which less.
A friend has many Concord grape vines. However, they are continually ravaged by Japanese beetles. Is there a homeopathic remedy that would be useful control them?
Japanese beetles can be controlled by Ricinus communis as a general remedy and Thuja or Ledum as more specific remedies. Ricinus is actually a companion plant to all vines and its use as a remedy at the beginning of the season is protective in general against pests and diseases. However, once the critters are there, you need to be more specific.
Dear Doctor Kaviraj:
I`m a homeopath myself and I`m getting into Agrohomeopathy as well. I have a question in regards to the phyllophaga obsoleta, which attacks the potato fields, leaving a huge loss. What will be the best remedy for this? Will Cantharis work?
Thanks for your marvelous work.
Phyllophaga obsoleta or the brown beetle is also known as the potato beetle. This beetle is controlled by Thuja or Ledum palustre. Next time, protect the potato with Phaesolus from the time they are planted. This is made from the best companion remedy.
Dear Dr. Kaviraj,
I want complete treatment for cotton seed germination to plant growth & crop management practice.
Bhalchandra Sandip Saner
I am not a cotton farmer and you know probably more about managing cotton than I do. Nonetheless, I shall do my best.
1. Soak the seeds in a silicea solution overnight before planting.
2. When the plants are established and the dry season is not yet started, water Silicea in the soil, to enable longer water retention of the last rains that fall.
3. For the cottom bollworm, that great plague of the cotton grower, give Sambucus nigra as a preventative, just before the bollworm season.
4. Make sure you have sufficient organic material in the soil to avoid fungal and bacterial diseases.
Kindly suggest the remedial measure for the following pests :
1. Paddy stem borer
2. Red gram – webber
Malatesh S Puttannavar
Both these pests are caterpillars I presume from your picture. For both, I recommend Sambucus nigra.
Our kiwifruit has been heavily sprayed with copper over the past few months in an attempt to prevent the Pseudomonas syringae pv. Actinidiae virus. As a result the vines are now showing copper toxicity with yellowing leaves that have brown spots all over them. There is also a very light canopy cover for this time of year. The vines have just set this seasons fruit.
Would treating the vines with cuprum assist them to recover from the heavy use of copper, which so far seems to be the best preventative measure that has been found for the virus, although it is not foolproof as the virus is still spreading?
You can certainly try to antidote the effects of excess copper by the use of the potency. Whether it is wise may be the subject of consideration. In the case of excesses, elementary remedies have the tendency to aggravate the existing problem, when the remedy is close enough, the same as the element that caused the problem in the first place. As an example I may cite the fact that an excessive gift of potassium or phosphor as fertiliser cannot be cured by either Kali carb or by Phosphorus, since both will only exacerbate the problem.
So, to me it seems more intelligent to use an antidote with the closest similarity to the present problem. Another fact you mention is that cuprum seems to be the best remedy to curb the disease and my advice is to use it after recovery of the plants as a remedy with a better effect than the crude. I would suggest Cuprum sulphuricum for the control of the pest and you will see a reduction of the need for copper and a great saving in your budget.
Dr. Kaviraj/ Plant Dr,
Can a type of iso-therapy be used on farms? Can one take a soil sample ( sample taken on different places with problems on a farm ) and use that in a Radionics device/ Field Broadcaster as a “detox” on a farm to balance the soil?
Can I make use of blood or urine or both to prepare an iso-therapy remedy with cattle/animals for mastitis, trichomonas infection?
You can certainly use a radionics machine and seek to alleviate the problems on a piece of land by broadcasting a remedy made from soil samples. But you have to keep all samples separate and use different remedies for different spots. You cannot mix them all and make one remedy to solve all problems. Some will be pH, others will be consistency and others again may have to do with nutrients – which is always pH dependent.
Personally, I prefer the physical remedies, since in them it is not just a vibration brought in by a machine, but the real thing. It also enables much easier individualisation and treatment.
Mastitis is better controlled by Belladonna 30c single dose and if an old case, by Conium maculatum 200, possibly repeated once or twice.
Dear Dr. Kaviraj,
In one of our garden-beds the plants don’t grow well. We have discovered that there is too much salt in the soil and there are mole crickets. The Vegetables, like peas we grow now, is in the shadows part of the day. What can we do?
That sounds like you should use the remedy Natrum carbonicum. You must consider that the same remedy sometimes aggravates existing problems. Thus we take a remedy that has close resemblance but is different enough to not cause too much trouble.
Mole crickets love this salty environment so with the help of the remedy the effects are diminished and the conditions and circumstances change.
Sodium Carbonate. Common soda. Na2CO3. Trituration. Solution.
Sterility. Chronic effects of sunstroke; salt. Windburn. Blotch. Weak straggly plants. Eyespot.
“Half an ounce of ordinary kitchen salt is dissolved in an ounce and a half of boiling distilled water. In order to free it from its associated salts it is filtered through printing paper and left to crystallize by evaporation at a temperature of 122O Fahrenheit. The crystals, which are left to dry on blotting paper, are of cubical shape with pyramidal indentation on each side. One grain of these crystals is triturated with 99 grains of lactose, to the millionth attenuation and then brought to the decillionth attenuation, (as indicated in the first part of the Chronic Diseases).”
(Hahnemann S. The Chronic Diseases)
Calcium is a part of cell walls and regulates cell wall construction. Cell walls give plant cells their structural strength. Enhances uptake of negatively charged ions such as nitrate, sulfate, borate and molybdate. It balances charge from organic anions produced through metabolism by the plant. Some enzymes are regulated by Ca-calmodulin.
Nat. carb. is the typical salt of the Natrum group. An excess of alkali burns off the superficial layers of the epidermis leaving the leaves dry and cracked. The roots are dry, sometimes mottles or ulcerated. The plant is excessively thirsty, whilst photosynthesis is impaired due to excess water stored in the plant.
The flowers come too early resulting in sterility in cereals, and failure to form fruits in fruit producing plants. The plant is weak and cannot remain upright as in eyespot. The spots and blotches are blackish while the leaves dry out. Also tan-spot and halo-spot can be treated with this remedy. As these diseases have been described elsewhere, they have not been reproduced here.
Dear Dr. Kaviraj
One of my flower border has convulvus growing in it and I would be grateful for advice as to which homeopathic remedies might inhibit it. In desperation a number of years ago I tried treating the soil with convulvus remedy but I’m not sure if that was isopathy for the soil or homeopathy for the convulvulus! I’d be grateful for any help you can offer.
Hi Christine, I think it is best to use a dose of Juglans nigra, at the beginning of the growing season and before you plant or sow anything else. Leave it for 72 hours and then plant or sow what you want. Throughout the summer you will notice the Convulvulus not growing a centimeter, while your other plants thrive. It has been shown to work up to seven months from a single dose.