Dear Dr. Kaviraj,
We have noticed galls on our White Spruce which resemble pineapples. Can you help?
Margaret Hoffman – Minnesota
Galls resembling pineapples? Is that in shape or also in size? Without a photo it is a little difficult to make anything of this, but I shall give you my educated guess.
Galls are of 2 kinds – those in which the larva grows and then eats the inside of leaves or pine needles is the most common and requires either Ledum palustre or Thuja.
The second kind is a gall mostly found on fruit trees, which are fungal infections, of which the spores break the next spring and reinfect the tree. They originate from the gall wasp, an insect that is the vector of the disease. Of both I have added a photo, so you can see the difference. This problem is also best addressed by Thuja, which will do something about the infected leaves. Normally the infection leaves a red spot on the leaf surrounded by a yellow halo. After administration of the remedy, the halo disappears and the colour of the red tissue becomes paler. The spores will not mature and re-infection in the following year is thus avoided.
Dear Dr. Kaviraj,
I live in the Northeastern part of the U.S. and raise rosebushes in my yard. For the last few years they have been developing black spots on the leaves. Do you have a suggestion for this?
Judy Mendelson Mackey
Hi Judy, those black spots can be treated with Belladonna, but this is not a definite solution. You may also use Sulphur, which generally is a problem for roses when grown on acid soil, since the degree of acidity makes Sulphur as an element difficult to obtain for the plants.
Dear Dr. Kaviraj,
What do you suggest for squash bugs?
Julian Jonas -CCH – Center for Homeopathy of Southern Vermont
Squash bugs are dingy brownish black insects that have a distinct odour when squashed. They lay their eggs on the underside of the leaves and are small and lain in clusters along the central vein. After hatching the young larva remain grouped in clusters. They are often repelled by the remedies Ledum palustre, Calendula, Tanacetum or Nasturtium.
Good day Dr. Kaviraj,
I am in my final year of homoeopathy in South Africa and have decided to research plants . I am using hydroponics with growth media and the remedy Oxygeninum 6c and 30c, to see if it is able to increase the oxygen uptake in the roots especially on hot days. I was wondering if you could provide insight into this project, especially but not limited to potency etc. I intend to use a dissolved oxygen meter to measure the oxygen levels, as well as root length, number, leaf area and chlorophyll content. I am using lettuce as the subject plant. I am hoping to improve the oxygen content in the water and therefore the growth rate. A quicker growth rate means shorter growth time and it could mean a commercially viable option for hydroponic farmers. I have read your recommendations on how to dose the plants. Would this be the same in a hydroponics set up?
Many kind regards
Anthony de Pontes
In hydroponics I would suggest the same dosage as in plants grown in earth, but there is a small stipulation. The water used should be renewed, since otherwise you may set up a proving, since some residue would remain in the water in a closed system and repeated doses may be harmful.
As for potencies, several tests in Brazil by colleagues of 6 different universities have shown that some of the higher potencies may have the opposite effect. Especially the 200C seems to carry this kind of reaction. My suggestion after much experimentation is that the 6X is generally best. New insights in the potency problem has led me to experimentation with the potencies in the Fibonacci scale, to wit : 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34, 55, 89, 144. NMR measurements have shown the Fibonacci potencies to exhibit the strongest NMR signal, which to me indicates they would be the best suited.
Hi Dr. Kaviraj,
Thanks for your work — I think it’s amazing! Do you think that homeopathy can help deter deer from eating my roses? I have several rose bushes that were once wonderful and lush. Now they are a shadow of their former selves, with thin weak stems and few roses, because the deer keep coming and eating them back. Just when I think they are coming back and I’m going to have a few nice roses opening, the deer show up and decimate them.
Unfortunately, the roses are located in front of my home right by my front door, so placing big fences around them would just be ugly and difficult. I’m wondering if I should just give up at this point and choose new plants. But I hate to say good bye to these rose bushes, some of which are 20 years old. (The deer only started showing up about 5-6 years ago).
Do you think homeopathy can help?
The solution is not exactly homoeopathic, but is a great deterrent.
Hang a small cloth bag of blood and bone meal from the nearest post. Once they get wet, they emanate a smell we cannot detect, but smells like big trouble for the deer. Alternatively, hang mothballs from the plants, which they also don’t like.