The Plant Doctors – March 2014

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Mark Moodie, one of our Plant Doctors gives a preamble to this month’s question and answer session. He explains where we are in the art and science of Agrohomeopathy.

Mark Moodie gives a preamble to this month’s question and answer session: 

 

Dear Readers

We received a lot of questions this month. Dr Waris has been able to come up with remedies which he is confident will address the individual situations, and he has shared his answers.  Last month I grumbled because I wanted to hear from readers what happened next, and some of you answered that you wanted to know what happened earlier, ie what insights give Dr. Waris the confidence to prescribe the remedies he suggests. This is good! I really think that we learn initially by imitation and by adopting dogmas from teachers and friends, but we really grow up when we understand why something is done so that we can be creative and forge our own answers as time goes on. We are, I further assume, all in different stages along this continuum, working with a mixture of assumption and insight, experience and hope.

My particular interest is to squeeze our common discipline towards understanding and away from unquestioning repetition so that we can be increasingly effective, even when faced with new situations.

How might this be achieved? For instance, let us consider diagnosis alone, before prescription and potency is even contemplated. What do we need to know to make a valid diagnosis? One prescriber will feel confident just knowing the pathologist’s title for the complaint. For that person as soon as s/he hears there are, for example, “slugs”, the prescription ‘helix tosta’ will leap to mind. Job done. Another prescriber may want to know more: what is the plant that is troubled by slugs and what has been the weather in the last days, and is this a problem for the region or just this garden? Is this slug-infested plant the only host for the slugs? What is the soil like? In what continent are these plants? Are they raised on soluble fertiliser or humus? What other issues are manifest? If one puts this into the language of the Organon we are asking to appreciate the totality of the symptoms.

It is my experience that we are sometimes fortunate to select an effective remedy just knowing the single symptom – ie slug – but I assume we will increase our success rate when we have that bigger picture and can orientate ourselves within that fuller totality.

Agrohomeopathy is a very young discipline. It is a tiny little baby, nursed by a very few unfunded boffins.Although it has great potential there are differing opinions on how it should be raised. I am convinced that agrohomeopathy has an older sibling, one in the beautiful but difficult teenage years, which is called biodynamics. Both biodynamics and agrohomeopathy come from the same root and so have much to teach and learn from each other. (I can back up that assertion but I don’t have the energy today, so take it as a Mark Moodie dogma for now.) If I were to approach the questions in this month’s column from a biodynamic perspective I would ask all those extra questions above and more about the manuring of the plant, the light and warmth, the surrounding countryside and the water etc.

Dr Waris had not come across biodynamics until we discussed our approaches and he is right to remain with the remedies that he has found effective. He is a very busy man with two clinics, a pharmacy for hand-made remedies, and his research work into agrohomeopathy. This is just his homeopathic work. He also writes newspaper columns and has family duties and charitable work. As the Facekom.com deadline approaches each month I am concerned whether he can find time to address your questions but each time answers arrive in my email before the time runs out, and I send it in to fill this column. It is amazing that he finds time for us and I am intensely grateful. I am not willing to pressure him further to support his prescription with long explanations each month, but Dr Waris and I will come together again to write about his approach in some detail. We already have a few hours of recordings in preparation for a publication but there is more to do.

As a broad-brush spoiler I can say that Dr Waris works with the human materia medica and extracts that which he can transfer to the situation with plants. He also works with the miasms and clearing these so that disease does not have a chance to become manifest. His independently assessed work with mealy bug on cotton alone would give one confidence that this path has merit. Despite approaching agriculture from seemingly different streams (there is no friction between us), Dr Waris and I agree that you can’t argue with evidence. It is a neutral arbiter. If something is tried and is found to be effective, the debate falls away to secondary importance – or is invigorated. That is why I keep asking for stories of what you have found effective and that’s why I have put together a means for those stories to be collected in the materia medica and repertory.

At the moment the materia medica – – is more complete than the repertory – – because of time pressure. I am a one-man-band beavering away in the spare time that I can find between family and business commitments. The repertory and materia medica are designed so that anyone can consult them and add to them. Everyone can add their experiences on-line or by post.We may be creating something of lasting value.

It is also the first place to try if you have a question. For instance, in the mail this month we have Susan Hormozi, who has some questions about mildew on Jasmin. If we put ‘mildew’ into the search page of the materia medica () we get:

Allium Cepa
Berberis Vulgaris
CalcareaPhosphorica
Kali Muriaticum
Kali Nitricum
Lactic Acid
Magnesia Sulphurica
Manganum
NitricumAcidum
SalicylicumAcidum
Sulphur
Kali Permanganicum
NatrumSalicylicum
508
Biplantolmykos II
501
Apple Majic
Silicea
Belladonna
FG4
Cuprum Metallicum
NatrumSulphuricum

 

As with the human materia medica one needs then to check each remedy in the list and see which best fits one’s own situation. As more of you have experiences to share this list will be more definitive and authoritative. Without sharing experiences by submitting them we will be left with intuition, conjecture, and debates between different world views!

By all means, if the materia medica isn’t forthcoming, ask Dr Waris who seems willing to continue to offer his opinion. I will occasionally pitch in with some thoughts or ask for more detail. If you’ve read this far you’ll know the kind of information I think is relevant.

So I am wishing for more detailed questions and others are wishing for more detail on the choice of remedy. I would like more energy and time and for the meantime we will do what we can with the tools and energy and insight we have at our disposal.

Another reader asked for clarification on how to apply the remedies. I hope we will remember to add the following appended paragraphs to each monthly column in the future:

Mark Moodie

 

 

Kavi suggested this: “ When I refer to treating plants with homeopathic remedies, this is the standard dosing procedure: Put 20 drops of a 6X potency in a litre of water. Succuss the bottle 50 times. Put this litre in the watering can, fill it up with 19 litres of tap water and stir. If the watering can is smaller, the amount of remedy put in must be proportionally smaller. Thus a 10 litre can needs only ½ litre and just 10 drops of the remedy. Apply the contents of the watering can to the roots of the plants to be treated.”

 

Christiane Maute has used remedies on pillules and says this in her book “Homeopathy for plants”: for your garden: Crush 6-8 globules in 150 ml or water using a plastic or wooden spoon. This mixture will be divided into 3 parts and used to make 30l of “medicinal water” in all.” (The three parts are because 10 litres is enough to carry but you can add the 150 ml to the 30 litres in one go.)

 

Mark Moodie says: Try the above. As agrohomeopathy is so young please do take these as no more than initial suggestions. In biodynamics we make a distinction between remedies that irrigate a plant and those that are sprayed in the air. Kavi often said you don’t take a shower in the remedy, you drink it and because a plant drinks through its roots that’s why you apply it there. But the stoma on the underside of the leaves are also paths into the plant so I would argue with Kavi. There you have it – a difference of opinion. Perhaps frustrating but I hope you will sigh and take it as a permission to experiment – AND REPORT BACK! (Thanks)


 

March 2014 Plant Doctor

 

Readers Questions:

 

Mark Moodie and Dr. Iftikhar Waris

 

Dear Facekom,

I’d be interested in trying to run a trial, but I’m not sure how practically achievable it would be. I would like to be able to try and control Charlock, a weed, in my spring oats. The best that I could hope to do would be something sprayed from a knapsack sprayer.
I’d also be interested in a trial to try and control disease in winter wheat. I’m growing 30 acres of milling wheat this year. The oat acreage is significantly higher. Charlock is my main weed that I have to contend with.

Best wishes
Oliver Dowding

 

Dr. Waris: Dear Oliver, you can used  SILICEA 200 & MEZEREUM 200 to control the Charlock.

Mark Moodie: Hello Oliver. We have met. Have you considered the biodynamic method of peppering? Details can be found here: . Also see Ron Blincoe’s experiences at the bottom of this article.


Hi Plant Doctors

Question:  I do have a major problem with a certain type of ant in my property and adjacent properties. In summer during the wet season these ants dig up little mounds of earth right through the property especially a day or two before rain is coming. They are tiny ants pale orange/brown. These mounds ruin the grass as they cover the grass and after the rainy season there is a lot of bare dirt instead of grass where these mounds were. I collected some of these ants and burnt them and made a homeopathic remedy in 8x. I sprayed the property (1 acre) in October last year and two more times but no change.  Any ideas?

[Feedback: I live north of Brisbane in Australia and we have sub tropical weather here. Three years ago I had many slugs in my vegetable garden and used natural slug pellets and beer traps with no good results. I then got some helix toasta 30c and sprayed the garden with this about 2 weeks apart. I did not see much results that summer. Next summer and right up to now I have not had any slugs at all. Just some feedback for you!}

Anna Morningstar

 

Dr.Waris: Dear Anna: You can use MEZEREUM 200 & ANTIMONIUM TARTARICUM 200 for this problem.

Mark Moodie: I put ants into the search function at considera.org and got almost every remedy in the MM! It seems that I have to raise my programming game so it only finds whole words and not ants as in plANTS etc.  Like I said, it’s a young discipline with boffins ….


Good morning,
I have been trying to remove a plague of English Ivy from my backyard on Long Island. I am planting (gradually) native plants for bird, bees, and other pollinators for my delight and for the native ecology. For as much ivy as I’ve pulled out over the past 3 growing seasons, I almost cannot keep up with this plant’s vigorous growth. It is widespread. Would you please recommend medicines which I can use to get rid of this ivy, but which will not harm my native plants?

Thank you very much.

Lynn Koch

 

Dr. Waris: Dear Lynn, you can use SILICEA 200 & MEZEREUM 200 to control the Ivy.


Dear Plant Doctors

During the winter months we bring all our plants indoors and some of them have developed white mildew. It is sticky and difficult to get rid of. Last year we lost our Jasmine plant that we had for 15 years to mildew (it just didn’t recover ). Any suggestions to save the ones that have this year?

Thank you

Susan Hormozi

 

Dr.Waris:  SILICEA 200 will solve your problem.


Dear Plant Doctors,

 

I am certified to grow on Maui Cannabis  Sativa. Unlike Industrial Hemp, these plants with up to 60 percent THC attract all types of bugs. Netting does not dissuade insects from munching on the plants.  Because I am using these plants to support cancer patients (with oils to reduce symptoms) I cannot use pesticides. Have you suggestions any suggestions beyond misting leaves with a baking soda to cut acidity?

Thank you

Laura

 

Dr Waris:  Hi Laura.  Causticum  200 & Acid Nitricum 200 are the solution  of your problem.


Dear Sir,

Namasthe.  Our friends are facing a termite problem in Pomogranate in Chitradurga areas of Karnataka which is receiving very low rainfall. Please give us a remedy. Also, we have problems of houseflies in our home and also mosquitoes. Do we have any remedy?

With regards

Aruna Kumara

 

Dr Waris: You Can use ANTIMONIUM TARTARICUM 200 & Mercuriussol 200 alternately.


Dear Sirs,

Can you suggest remedies for fungal and/or viral infections in a pomegranate garden?

NilamkumarShirkande

 

DrWaris: You can use PSORINUM  200 & ANTIMONIUM TARTARICUM 200for Fungal & Viral infection.


Dear Agro-homoeopathists,

I am new to this website, so this is the first time I’ve seen your column on plants and crops.  A great concept!  I am presently having problems with mould growing in my wheat grass (grown domestically in trays for drinking the juice). The current high humidity in NSW is probably not helping. If you have any ideas on a homoeopathic solution I’d be very grateful.

Thank you,

Julia

 

Dr. Waris: You can use Natrum Mur 12D for this problem.


Dear Plant Doctor,

Have you any advice to stop Guava fruit developing insects inside while on the tree itself?

Regards,
V K Aggarwal

 

Dr. Waris: You can use CHELONE 200 twice a week in the root.


Greetings,

We have recently moved into an apartment open on the south side. We don’t get adequate sunlight onto this area, so we can hardly grow any plants there. January to June, we get some sun light onto these balconies. Is there any medicine which can help the plant’s growth in absence of sunlight even if it is an outdoor plant like Tulasi (Ocimum sanctum) which we Indians consider sacred and have to grow at every house. I have 2 pots both planted with the Tulasi plants and both had dropped all their leaves after we moved into the apartments. Now after January, when they started getting little sun light, they are bearing the leaves again but they are very tiny and don’t look healthy.

Thanks & regards,
Ashok

 

Dr.  Waris:   MEDORRHINUM 200 spray after every fifteen days.


Sir,
I have 20 medium sized flowerpots with different plants suited to my area [hot; less rainy].  But to my displeasure all leaves are turning yellowish over one month. I tried different medications, as per a local botanist, without any results. Can you suggest a remedy this?  In my area all Neem trees are drying out with their leaves turning to red and drying up.

regards

Guruprasad Nittur

 

Dr.Waris:  Dear Guruprasad, the first week you use GLONINE 200 & the second week ALFALFA 3x, the third week CHINA 3D and the fourth  Spray  LECITHINUM 3D.


Dear sir,

I have a mango tree Amrapaliaged 15 years. The tree gets lot of flowers and fully blooms, but then flowers start falling, then gradually fruits also fall continuously and lastly I get around 50-60 kg of fruit. The shoots carrying the fruit get black at the tip and ultimately fall down. Please suggest a homeopathic remedy for it.

Thanks and regards,

Achal Singh Bhati

 

Dr. Waris:  You can use the following remedies :

1-BACILLINUM / 200

2-Medorrhinum/ 200

3- CalcareaCarb /200

4- Syphilinum/200

5-Sulphur/ 200


Dear Sir,

My Ocimum Sanctum plants dry and become dead every winter. What is the remedy for this problem?

Thanks

Dr R K Gupta, Delhi

 

Dr. Waris: You Can Use SILICEA200& KALI PHOS 200 alternately after every fifteen days.


Dear Plant doctor,

What can I do about squash bugs causing the early death of cucumbers and zucchini?

Rachel Chaput

 

Dr. Waris: Dear Rachel, you can use MEZEREUM 200 & ANTIMONIUM TARTARICUM 200.


Dear Sir,

My tomato plants get wilted even when they are flowering and producing fruits. The plants die in one or two days. So also the Chilli plant. The leaves get wrinkled and shrivelled. The okra (ladies finger) plants, when they are one or two inches high, suddenly one morning we find them wilted and flat on the ground. We don’t know what is happening to these plants. Please advise!

Elsy John

 

Dr. Waris: You can use SILICEA 200 & PSORINUM 200 Alternately.


Dear Plant Doctors,

I would love to keep many indoor house plants but always end up taking them outside for one reason. The problem is a small fly or some kind of insect (it is dark/black, extremely small) which multiplies very quickly and seems to make its home in the soil. I do not think I am overwatering at all. I’ve tried everything regarding the soil moisture/cleanliness. I’m in Southern California. Our climate is warm, dry and pleasant year round.  Can you please help with this problem?

Thank you so much,

 

Dr. Waris: You can use CANTHARIS 200 & ANTIMONIUM TARTARICUM 200 for this problem.


Dear Plant Doctors,

I have two almond trees and one apricot tree that appears to be suffering from the same problems. The trees seem badly affected by black staining on their bark, and they are oozing amber sap profusely.   The oldest almond also appears to have been attacked by white ants at some stage, and the wood in the middle of the tree seems to be dead, but enough is still surviving that the branches still are in leaf and bear fruit.  The apricot tree only has one large oozing amber Sap spot. The almond trees are also infested with black ants, presumably for the oozing sap! Please help me restore some kind of health to these trees!

Thank you
Sarah M

 

Dr. Waris: Spray your trees With SILICEA 200 after every week.


Could plants have a constitutional remedy?

Thanks,
Kathe

 

Dr.Waris: NO


Hi Mark, Dr. Waris,

I have just found out about your column at hpathy, and was wondering if I could ask you a question on behalf of a friend. My friend asks –“Why do my lemon trees (still very young) look sick? One is all yellow with dark green “veins” on the leaves and the other seems to be dropping leaves. Even after feeding them the right stuff, things do not improve.”

With warmest good wishes,

Andrea.

 

Dr.Waris: The solution to your friend’s problem is given below:

First Week, Spray AMBRA GRISEA 3D

Second Week, Spray with ALFALFA 3D

Third Week, Spray with KALI PHOS 3D

 


Dear Mark and Dr. Waris

I live in Port Elizabeth, South Africa, and have a very strong, young wild-fig tree growing extremely vigorously next to my house. It was planted before I moved in and was at that stage still a small young tree, and I did not know how vigorous and exceedingly intrusive, powerful, and extensive a root system it has.

The fig tree has a vigorous root structure that has invaded my house, cracked tiles, flooring, windows and walls.  It now threatens to crack the swimming pool.  I attempted to lessen its root growth toward the house by severing the enormous root structure at its base extending toward the house, hoping it would then only continue to send out its roots in the opposite direction where they are also.

The reason for my lengthy mail to you is to enquire – would there be ANYTHING homeopathic I could administer to the severed root system running toward my house, in order to curtail its growth in this direction?  I really do not want to poison it or kill it completely, knowing the long-term terrible consequences on the Earth, but am desperately needing to act immediately.

My sincerest gratitude

Ellen

 

Dr. Waris: You Can use following three medicines with great hope:

1-LEDUM PALUSTRE (200

2- CONIUM MACULATUM ( 200

3-  LATHYRUS SATIVUS 200


Dear plant doctor,

Is there any remedy against the excessive growth of Titricumrepens in my vegetable garden? I already tried isopathy with potentized Titricumrepens and also burned dry Titricumrepens and sprayed the ashes. Is did not help.

Kind regards,

Henny Grasselier

 

Dr. Waris: SILICEA 200 will help you.


Hello Mark Moodie sir,

I am a homeopathic physician practicing in Bangalore,India. My family has a Pomegranate farm 180 kms from Bangalore. The land has been used for the first time and the pomegranate crop is the first crop there. Now the challenge is ‘termite infection’. The termites eat up at the roots and with in 4-6 weeks the plant crashes down. Now every 10-15 plants out of 1000 plants has been attacked by termites.

Atmosphere there is very hot/temperate climate. Attaching few pictures for your reference.

Best regards

 

Dr.  Waris:  ANTIMONIUM TARTARICUM 200 & PETROLEUM 200 with irrigation.

moodi-mar14-image002 moodi-mar14-image003 moodi-mar14-image004 moodi-mar14-image005 moodi-mar14-image006


Dear Mark and Dr.Waris,

I continue to read this first every month, but you have to admit, Kaviraj explained more. I hope you or Dr. Waris will start explaining a bit more. I am interested in his remedies as some of them I’ve never encountered. Also, he uses high potencies which I believe Kaviraj did not do and I’m interested in the potencies issue. Please don’t quit!

 

Dr. Waris:  Our suggestions all depend on the results of experiments which we’ve done in the field on plants and different crops. The more dynamic medicine is more effective, so that is why we prefer high potencies.


Dear Mark and Dr Waris,

For mealy bugs you have suggested Antimony Tart and Mezereum. Should they be mixed or sprayed separately? If separately, which one should be used first? Or if only one of the two is to be used, which should be preferred? I have a Mealy Bug problem in tomatoes. Weather is gradually warming up in my part of India.

Thank you

Pranaykumar D.Bhatt

 

Dr.Waris: ANTIMONIUM TARTARICUM 200 & PETROLEUM 200 are the best medicine for mealy bugs.


Dear Plant Doctor,

Very interesting articles. Kindly suggest what remedies are to be used for Rose flowering plants for best results.

Dr.A. Jeevanjaya

 

Mark Moodie: I think Dr. Waris missed your question so you are left with me, the fellow who has more questions for you, than you have for me. Please read this month’s introduction and you will know what I want. However, there are a few remedies which are suggested to promote flowering in general. Why not have a look at the yarrow preparation of biodynamic agriculture:


Dear Mark and Dr. Waris,

Have you any ideas for controlling slugs that are having a very good day munching on my plants?  I tried the platters of beer to little or no avail.

Thanks and I will report back.

Kkathleen Raskin

 

Mark Moodie: See all the above and try .  Helix tosta 6x is the first ‘shot from the hip’.


To start the health of a plant preventive, I always used and still use, Silicea 6 x, as Kaviraj told me. After that, you have to look in the repertory of Kaviraj or buy the book written by him. I helped our 600 palm trees with the isotherapy of the beasts, the larve and the eggs. Kaviraj told me to give a try and it worked.

While in the south of Portugal and Spain all the palm trees died. Every month I applied this during the whole year. I am still happy with my beautiful landscape of palm trees instead of a cemetery of dead trees.You all have to buy the book of Kaviraj and you will learn how to treat your plants. He never fails in giving good answers.

Henriette Bonda Verdoorn


Greetings Drs. Moodie and Waris,

Please hang in there. I plan on writing back with my results as per getting an avocado tree to set fruit and how the drought plays out this summer. Since I last submitted my question we have received 12 inches of rain in a single “pineapple express” storm over a three day weekend. It does not end the drought but did come at a very good time to help recharge the topsoils and help plants in imminent stress. I think that is one of the pitfalls of any agro-homeopathic outcome studies….variables keep changing! And of course, we are having a very mild winter which is conducive to blossom formation on the avocado, so if fruit gets set I will never know for sure if it was the remedies or the good weather or both. Plus, the world needs agro-homeopathy now more than ever with climate change, bee colony collapse disorder, increasing insect populations, etc. etc. I plan on slogging along, it seems to be destiny of a sort, even if an uphill battle. I think we need to reach out to everyone in the agricultural community, even at the risk of co-option.

Claire Green


Greetings,

I have quite a few house plants. About a year ago I tried several Streptocarpus. Some look healthy but don’t bloom, others dry up and die even though they have been watered. Usually the problem is with the ones I’ve been able to propagate. I wonder if it could be some sort of fungus. Any suggestions would be appreciated.I’ve also got scale on a Meyer lemon and on a kumquat which I put out for the summer then bring indoors during the winter. I’ve used something called Fine Oil which helps keep the scale under some control. Is there something which would work better?

Thank you for your help.

Pat

 

DrWaris:  SILICEA 200& ANT.TART 200 will help you.


Dear Sirs,

I had a problem with scale insects on my citrus. The first tree died because I did not do anything! When the second became infected I collected a few insects, ground them in a mortar with alcohol and made a 6X remedy which I diluted and sprayed on the scale colonies. After three applications some days apart I could not find a single scale insect. The basic homoeopathic principle that if you can identify the pest you have found the remedy still applies.



About the author

Mark Moodie

Mark Moodie

For 25 years Mark Moodie has been fascinated by holistic approaches to tending the land. He hosts the website Considera which provides a growing M.M and Repertory for plants and discusses resources for biodynamics and Agrohomeopathy http://considera.org/hrxmatmed.html The website allows the world community to contribute their experiences in planting. He has also published books by V.D. Kaviraj and other cutting edge thinkers through Mark Moodie Publications http://www.moodie.biz/ . Mark Moodie lives in the Forest of Dean as a satellite / parasite of Oaklands Park Camphill Community. He is co-inventor of the ES4 and AirFlush water-saving sanitaryware. He would like to bring scientific rigor to the study of the spirit.

10 Comments

  • Dear Plant Doctors,
    Thank you for answering my question of the little flies that invade the soil of house plants.
    Since I sent the question, I have researched the little buggers and found they are called
    Fungus Gnats in the nursery industry. Bradysia species. Seems to be quite a bit of information
    on them in the internet. Just wanted to supply more detailed information for you.
    Thank you so much for your Rx. I will give it a try and return with feedback.
    Ann

    CANTHARIS 200 & ANTIMONIUM TARTARICUM 200

  • Dear Plant Doctors,
    In Southern California we have a big problem with fruit tree rats. They climb the trees and eat the avocados
    and other fruits right off of the tree before we can harvest them. Some years are worse than others in the population of the rats. Any Homeopathic suggestions, please?
    Thank you so much,
    Ann

  • Dear Dr. Waris and Mark
    With all regards to your extreme knowledge and prescriptions to the growers. I have been going through all the questions and answers carefully. I have been doing gardening and farming for more than 40 years and have studied closely the chemicals, organics, biodynamics, etc. etc. and have also being open to all branches of sciences. Homeopathy is one. i deeply study Homeopathy and have also used certain remedies on certain plants for some problems which I have also shared in IFOAM International Scientific conferences.

    I would like to bring to the notice of all, including you and Mark that all problems are not necessarily have to be looked from the Homeopathy point of view as I notice that some problems are related to nutritional aspect, some viral, some hormonal and some, others, which not necessarily could be addressed by using Homeopathy.

    The impression given is, as if Homeopathy holds answers to all problems related to plants while the answers needs to be also looked at, more appropriately, elsewhere by rectifying cultivation practices. Sorry to say, your answers to certain problems (which are not disease oriented) gives an impression that you have all solution, which is not true. This to me, could also be misguiding. Sorry, if I am wrong.

    For Example 1) – the problems referred by Elsy John:
    Tomato plants wilting and collapsing within a day or two: The problems may be the nematode or Tomato Mosiac Virus or salinity in soil where some temperature and moisture variations could be the cause. John should check the Electo conductivity, pH and also for presence of Nematodes.
    Chilly leaves wrinkled: First we must determine if it is virus or a nutritional disorder. If it is due to virus, John should look at good quality and resistant variety of chilly. John can also use a preparation made with Bougainvillea spectabilis leaves (5ml leaf extract in 1 liter of water) and spraying once every 7 days. The prophylactic spray of same on tomatoes, 14 days after transplanting could keep him off the problem.
    Okra – wilted and collapsed – Again the probable cause could be nematodes as also damping off caused by Rhizoctonia fungus. As his plants are young, the possible cause could be also soil borne insect or a fugal or bacterial infection. If his plants exhibit stunted growth and stiff like, his soil rather may be rich in silica force. In that case he should try either BD 500 or Homeopathy remedy Calcarea Carb 200 – to bring in the the calcium force.

    Now, with all due respect to your knowledge and experience, I do not feel convinced that the all the above problems could be solved by the remedies prescribed, as you see there could be other dimensions to the problems which appropriately should be taken care of from respective dimensions. You cannot restore the nutritional imbalance or hormonal imbalance or biochemical imbalance by simply using Homeopathy. If nematode is the problem, it cannot be controlled by Homeopathy but inter-cropping with marigold/garlic would help. If it is due to salinity, dry neem leaf application or incorporation of Gypsum (calcium sulfate), a mineral would be helpful. If it is nutritional disorder, in the above cases of potassium and magnesium, the problems could be resolved by adding well digested compost. Damping off may be solved by homeopathy remedy.
    If the plants are collapsing suddenly, where is the time to apply the remedies? What the growers could do is to rather try to strengthen the plants using SILECEA preparations. Biodynamic practitioners use 501, the Silica preparation.

    Expample 2:Andrea. “The sick lemon plants; The symptom leaves yellow with dark green veins. The problem is clearly nutritional disorder. The indication is of Manganese deficiency. One must remember that often the symptom is not only due to one element but could be also the result of other elements combine and in this case, phosphorus and boron could be involved. How can you rectify nutritional disorder with homeopathy. The leaf fall could be due to imbalance of Phosphorus to or due to hormonal disorder – caused due to short time climatic variation. Therefore, Andrea should address the problem by restoring the nutritional balance first. Most of the nutritional disorders could be resolved simply using rich active biological composts. Compost would take care of all elements naturally, the one which is preferably made of fresh green vegetation. One would benefit learning more in Biodynamic composting as the preparations used there will address many problems.
    I do not have any intention of challenging your prescriptions but it would be perhaps be more convincing for us if they are all advised based on actual observation and experience. Homeo -pathy is after all a way to cure weakness or disease of the subject. One cannot survive on Homeopathy medicines. Homeopathy medicines are not substitute of nutrition or hormones or biochemicals or enzymes, etc.
    I would like to restrict my observation by siting an example of my own experience. In Calcutta, (India), during monsoon period often there is continuous rains for a week. Chrysanthemums being sensitive to this are all affected (I am not going into details). Now there is no solution to this situation either by chemical means or even organically. If someone tries to resolve using these methods, they are surely going to be disappointed. I addressed the problem with success using DULCAMRA 30. But, one would fare well (and may not experience any problem at all) if one use the BD prep 501, at the beginning of the monsoon which strengthen the plants.

    Regarding using the remedies: Although I would like to shed light upon this later in a separate coment, but I would always advise to dissolve the remedies in the water and dynamise (stir clockwise and anti-clockwise as in BD for atleast an hour) before using. I prefer “spraying” as the remedy can penetrate the “tongues” of the plants i.e. the “leaves”. I am a bit apprehensive of using the remedies – without the process of stirring – and using them in the soil in irrigation but I would like to try feeding through roots, before accepting or commenting on this method of administration.

    Finally, I would suggest that may be a little suggestion to look at cultivation aspects will be appropriate – although – this is not the platform, or restrict prescriptions only if you are sure that the problems could be surely resolved using homeopathy way and you could site examples of your experiences, although, I presume you do.
    Pawan Singhania, Kolkata, India

  • Dear Pawan

    I agree with you very strongly, and I am sorry that I haven’t been clearer in this regard.

    I guess that there is an implicit question behind the entries in this column. If that implicit question were “This is my problem. What shall I do?” then all issues of manuring, irrigation, cultivation and crop choice should be addressed too. You have made me realise that I have assumed a slightly different implicit question, something like: “This is my problem. If there is some potentised substance that could assist, what do you think it would be.”

    So let me be explicit. I have neither the expertise to identify or time to write about all the issues that might contribute to the problems in crops that are brought to this column. For my own gardening I would go to the obvious maintaining causes first such as the composts, physical trauma and so forth before even thinking of a remedy. I have lazily assumed that readers will too and only then ask about presenting issues.

    Thanks again Pawan. I look forward to hearing why you would stir for an hour and also a little more about why you chose dulcamara for your chrysanthemums and anything else interesting about that incident. I would then like to add it to the materia medica at considera.org.matmed if you are content.

    Sincerely

    Mark

  • Dear Mark,
    I also followed the Materia Medica which is primarily tested on human beings. Dulcamra 30 has never failed to bring relief or cure a person who catch cold or develop fever when soaked in rains. I have advised the remedy to innumerable patients and also to my gardeners, working outdoors, during rains when they get drenched, even for the whole day but the single dose of the remedy never failed.

    Chrysanthemum is a very sensitive plant, exhibiting response to any condition or treatment within a very short time. Continuous rains, sometime stretching to seven days, will always affect the condition of Chrysanthemums. Even after the sky is clear, the plants not only continue to remain weak, but the leaves loose their elasticity, they look sick, yellow necrosis develop and subsequently are affected by bacterial infection, eventually dying. No amount of subsequent treatment by any other means is helpful.
    I thought, when we get drenched, it is basically our cells that gets affected. I thought that the plants are also affected as their cells got affected. Every individual cell is a living entity in itself, all falling sick due to continuous rains, affecting the whole plant. I thought that in both the cases of human beings and the chrysanthemums, it is the cells that are affected, therefore, Dulcamara 30 should be useful.

    The next question was how and where to administer the medicine. The knowledge of Homeopathy (and the importance of potentising) and that of Biodynamics was useful. You know BD preparations (BD 500 and BD 501) are stirred (dynamised) for an hour before application. There are also research indications that even in Homeopathy, simply diluting a substance is not effective but they become so when they undergo the process of succussion (dynamisation or potentisation). I consider the stirring process to be similar to succussion. Besides the process of stirring possibly also dissolves more oxygen and ionization which may enhance the quality of water.
    Further, it has been observed that after spraying Dulcamara, the plant leaves would regain their turbidity (elasticity or spring action – i.e. when you press the leaves downward and abruptly release it, the leaves would jump back to their own position). If one has the eyes to observe, the plants would also look fresh (glowing – indication of enhanced ‘Aura’). Sometimes, after three or four days, the plants would also look ‘dull’, indicating the need for the second dose. After administrating the second dose, the plants would again show that freshness.
    The treated plants never showed necrosis or black spots and they all survived (3000 potted plants every year) ending into full bloom. Now my gardeners, attending my chrysanthemums, do not need my advise. They determine themselves when to administer the medicine. This is tested now over the years.

    Incidentally, i would also like to point out here, that due to poor health of the plants, their metabolic activity obviously would be low. The plants are already under high water pressure when their roots are also under wet condition. This cannot be an ideal situation to administer the dose at root level. Besides, the medicated water would also drain (wash) out. Incidentally, it would not be out of place to suggested to try experimenting with any remedy, both ways (through roots and through spray) and compare the results.

    I have also used SILICEA 200 to strengthen the plants from an predicted bad weather, well in advance, following the BD Calendar and it worked. Although, homeopathy is applied only when symptoms exhibit, but perhaps prophylactic administration of SILECEA (I would suggest 30 or 200 potency) or BD 501 (silica preparation for those who are familiar with Biodynamics) on all plants, susceptible to excessive rains or warm and humid or damp weather (very congenial for any fungal infection) would fare well to develop their immunity. Root application may be more advisable for large trees and spraying should be preferred for small shrubs or bushes.
    I can confidently recommend inclusion of the results in the considera.org.matmed
    Please share your opinion and observations in this column

  • Dear Mark,
    In response to your commend that “you have neither the expertise to identify or time to write about all the issues that might contribute to the problems in crops that are brought to this column”, I wonder if you could consider me to contribute here occasionally to fill up the void, although the column is for homeopathy. The purpose is not to cause confusion but help the grower to also address the problem at more possible cause/s, while administering the prescribed remedies by Dr. Waris or anyone else.

    As I had mentioned earlier, I felt many a solution lies in agronomic practices, environment control, soil and nutrition management, etc. It would not only be inappropriate but would also be misguiding to offer all solution in Homeopathy as Homeopathy cannot replace nutritional requirement, hormonal imbalances, viral infections, etc. which needs to be addressed otherwise.

    I would refrain from trying to pose that we have solution to all problems in Homeopathy. Homeopathy should definitely be advised, only on disease symptoms or for enhancing immunity or only when we have first hand experiences.
    It could really be tempting to enthusiastically jump with solutions and they could then be subject to criticism that may unfortunately weaken the confidence in this infant science.
    It would therefore, be really necessary, that everyone who tries any remedy, either prescribed by Kaviraj or Dr. Waris or anyone (even me) as often the same remedy may not exhibit same response for everyone, as it happens even with human beings.
    Every plant needs to be treated as a separate living organism.

  • Dear Plant Dotor!

    Have you any idea how can I keep off my fruit trees the Tropinota/Epicometis hirta?
    I live in south part of Hungary, and these bugs are makeing a lots of damage.

    Thanks
    Rita

  • IT IS REALLY VERY SATISFYING TO HELP PLANTS AND ANIMALS TO TREAT WITH HOMOEOPATHIC REMEDIES AS THEY HAVE THEIR OWN WAY OF TELLING THEIR COMPLAINTS,SOME CHANGE THEIR COLOR,SOME GET DRIED,SOME GET EATEN UP BY INSECTS,ANTS, ETC, ETC.SO IF WE CAN INCREASE THEIR IMMUNITY WITH MEDICINES,THEY CAN HAVE FULL BLOSSOMED LIVES.
    THANX TO THESE DOCTORS.

  • Dear Sir,
    I am Homoeopathic Consultant and I have recently started taking interest in my farm. I have Planted 250 Coconut plants( TxD ) in my field. there is major problem of white ants in my field. some plant are growing well and some not kindly suggest me what to do for healthy growth of plants
    Dr. Rajesh B Shah
    MD
    Consulting Homoeopath Mumbai

  • Please let me know the homeopatic remidyes for tomato damping off and tomato fruit borer and white fly on Bringal please give me the remidyes of homeopathic
    Thanks and regard
    P.Appa Rao

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